1. What is go kart tracking?
Tracking, also known as toe, refers to the direction the front wheels point relative to each other when viewed from above.
Toe in: Front edges closer together
Toe-out: The front of the wheels points slightly away from the kart's centreline.
Zero toe: Both front wheels are parallel when the steering is centred.
Toe-in: The front of the wheels points slightly towards the centreline.
Even changes as small as 0.5 mm can influence how a competition kart feels on track.
2. Equipment required
Before starting, you'll need a few basic tools:
- Kart laser alignment system, such as Sniper-style equipment
- Two suitable laser heads or alignment targets
- 10 mm and 13 mm spanners, depending on your track rods
- Flat, level working surface or kart setup table
- Tyre pressure gauge
- Kart setup sheet to record your measurements
Sniper Lasers: - You can purchase here from us!
3. How to set your tracking using lasers
Step 1 – Prepare the kart
Check that there is no excessive play in the steering column, track rods, rose joints or stub axle bearings.
Position the steering wheel centrally and check that the stub axles are approximately straight.
For repeatable measurements, use the same ride height, caster, camber and front track width settings each time you check the tracking.
Step 2 – Fit the laser alignment equipment
Fit the laser alignment heads or targets to the front stub axles or wheel mounting points, we like to place the lasers exactly where the front hub normally sits on an OTK - this allows you to be as accurate as possible.
Ensure the equipment is seated correctly, with no dirt or damage preventing the plates from sitting square.
Turn on the lasers, the lasers will project onto calibrated targets on the opposite side of the kart.
The target markings allow you to identify the relative direction of each front wheel.
Important: A laser's scale reading does not necessarily correspond directly to millimetres of total toe. Follow the manufacturer's measurement and conversion instructions.
Step 3 – Centre the steering
With both lasers installed, hold the steering wheel in its straight-ahead position.
Ideally, the steering column and steering wheel should be centred with the front wheels aligned symmetrically.
If one wheel points further out than the other, you'll need to adjust the track rods to balance the alignment.
On systems that support it, use the rear axle or chassis centreline as a reference to check that the front wheels are not both steering slightly in the same direction.
Step 4 – Measure the existing tracking
Read the alignment scales on both sides of the kart.
Examples:
- Left wheel: 0.5 mm toe-out
- Right wheel: 0.5 mm toe-out
- Total front toe-out: 1.0 mm
This assumes the readings are individual wheel toe measurements at the same reference diameter. Some laser systems use angular or proprietary scales instead.
Recording your existing setting before making changes is useful, particularly if you're trying to solve a specific handling problem.
Step 5 – Adjust the track rods
Loosen the locking nuts on the track rods.
Rotate the rods to lengthen or shorten them, which changes the direction each front wheel points.
The direction of adjustment depends on the track rod arrangement and thread orientation.
Make small, equal adjustments to each side where possible, keeping the steering wheel centred.
After each adjustment, recheck both laser readings.
Once you're satisfied, tighten the locknuts and measure again to ensure the settings haven't moved. Remember to keep the track rod ends free moving and don't lock them tight.
Step 6 – Final checks
Turn the steering from full left lock to full right lock, ensuring nothing binds or contacts another component.
Return the steering to centre and confirm your tracking measurements.
Also check that the track rod ends have sufficient thread engagement and that all fasteners are secure.
Your kart is now ready for a controlled track test.
4. How different tracking settings affect handling
Tracking affects the way the front tyres generate steering forces and how much they scrub against the circuit surface.
However, the effects are not completely universal. Caster, camber, tyre construction, front track width and chassis stiffness all influence how a particular kart responds.
|
Setting |
Typical handling characteristics |
|
Toe-out |
Can give a more immediate initial steering response; increases straight-line tyre scrub |
|
Zero toe |
Minimises static toe scrub and provides a neutral baseline |
|
Toe-in |
Can calm initial steering response on some karts; also increases tyre scrub |
Toe-out: sharper initial response
Toe-out is commonly used as a starting point on racing karts.
It can make the kart feel more eager to respond when the driver first turns the steering wheel, particularly in slower corners.
However, excessive toe-out can make the kart feel nervous, increase tyre temperatures and introduce unnecessary rolling resistance.
A kart with too much toe-out may also feel inconsistent through fast direction changes.
Zero toe: neutral and efficient
Zero toe means the front wheels are parallel when the steering is centred.
This reduces the static toe-related scrub that occurs while travelling straight.
It provides a useful baseline when assessing the influence of other setup adjustments.
Zero toe doesn't automatically mean the kart will have less grip or slower steering; the result depends on the complete chassis setup.
Toe-in: potentially calmer steering
Toe-in can make initial steering response feel less aggressive on some chassis and tyre combinations.
It may be worth testing if the kart is excessively nervous on initial turn-in.
However, too much toe-in increases tyre scrub and can make the kart reluctant to respond when entering a corner.
It should not be treated as a guaranteed cure for oversteer or instability.
5. Recommended starting settings
The following are illustrative testing ranges, not official OTK or Rotax factory specifications.
|
Kart category |
Suggested initial test |
|
Rotax Junior / Senior |
0–1 mm total toe-out |
|
KZ2 |
0–1 mm total toe-out |
|
Cadet / Micro |
0–1 mm total toe-out |
|
General baseline |
Zero toe |
Always confirm the measurement convention and reference diameter before comparing settings. One manufacturer's laser scale may not be directly comparable with another's.
For OTK chassis, follow the current manufacturer setup guidance for your particular model and tyre combination.
6. Troubleshooting handling problems with tracking
Interactive tracking setup guide
Select what your kart is doing to see a sensible tracking experiment.
Slow to turn in
Nervous or twitchy
Losing speed on straights
Uneven front tyre wear
Suggested adjustment
If the kart is reluctant to respond on corner entry, try a small increase in toe-out, around 0.5 mm total, from your existing baseline. Compare steering response and front tyre temperatures.
Only change one setup parameter at a time. If you alter tracking, caster, front width and tyre pressures together, it's extremely difficult to identify which change improved or worsened the handling.
7. How much difference does 0.5 mm of tracking make?
On a racing kart, small geometry changes can be noticeable because the steering is direct and the tyres operate under relatively high loads for their size.
A change of 0.5 mm total toe is small, but it can affect initial steering feel, tyre scrub and temperatures.
The effect may be more obvious on a high-grip circuit or when the kart is already close to its ideal balance.
For meaningful comparisons, make sure you're using the same measurement system and reference diameter every time.
8. Common tracking mistakes
One of the most common mistakes is adjusting the tracking without checking the steering centre. It's possible to achieve a correct total toe reading while the steering wheel is off-centre or the front wheels are asymmetrically aligned.
Another common issue is measuring on an uneven surface or with worn steering components.
Always recheck the tracking after making changes to caster, camber or steering hardware, as these can alter the measured alignment.
Finally, don't assume more toe-out automatically means more front grip. Excessive toe-out can create drag and tyre scrub without improving cornering performance.
9. Our advice at Used Kart Shop
For most modern racing karts, a sensible approach is to begin with a neutral or small toe-out setting and work from there.
Keep accurate setup records and make controlled changes of approximately 0.5 mm total toe when testing.
Tracking should be considered alongside caster, camber, front width, rear width, tyre pressures and the overall chassis balance.
If your kart is handling poorly, tracking may be part of the problem, but it's rarely the only factor.
At Used Kart Shop, we specialise in OTK and Rotax kart preparation, chassis setup, workshop servicing and race support. We can help identify handling issues and develop a setup suited to your driving style and circuit conditions.
Visit Used Kart Shop for kart parts, equipment and workshop services.
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